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Farm Trails · Southern Ulster County

A Saturday in the Shawangunks

A Hudson Valley Almanac day-trip guide

Some corners of the Hudson Valley wear their cliffs on the horizon. Down at the foot of the Shawangunk Ridge — the white-quartzite escarpment that draws climbers and hikers from all over — New Paltz and its neighbors sit in a valley thick with orchards, rail-trail miles, and the distillery that started New York's whole craft-spirits movement. This is a Saturday for people who want a walk in the morning and good things in a glass by afternoon, built around New Paltz, Gardiner, and the Rondout Valley to the west.

Morning — the ridge and the rail trail

Start in New Paltz with the Gunks in front of you. The Wallkill Valley Rail Trail runs right through town — flat, shaded, and scenic, ideal for a morning walk or bike with the ridge in view (the Shawangunk preserves themselves, Minnewaska and Mohonk, are a short drive up the mountain if you want a real hike, but their lots fill early on weekends, so go first if you go).

When you're ready to pick rather than walk, Dressel Farms on Route 208 does pick-your-own apples and sells vegetables and seasonal produce right in the shadow of the ridge.

Late morning — the cradle of New York whiskey

A few minutes south in Gardiner sits a genuine landmark: Tuthilltown Spirits, founded in 2003 as the first legal whiskey distillery to open in New York since Prohibition. Its founder's advocacy is the reason the 2007 Farm Distillery Act exists — which is to say, half the cideries and distilleries in these guides owe this 36-acre spot at the foot of the Gunks their existence. It makes the Hudson Whiskey line — Baby Bourbon, Manhattan Rye, Single Malt — from local grain, beside an NRHP-listed 1788 gristmill. Take the tour and tasting; it's the historical heart of the whole region's drinks scene.

Midday — a farm-kitchen lunch in Accord

Head west into the Rondout Valley for lunch where the cider is made. Westwind Orchard in Accord is a certified-organic orchard and cidery with an Italian-influenced farm kitchen turning out Neapolitan wood-fired pizza and fresh pasta on weekends, alongside its award-winning estate ciders. If you'd rather a brewery, Arrowood Farms is just down the road — a terroir-driven farm brewery growing its own hops and rye, with the farm-to-table Apiary + Bar, fire pits, and Adirondack chairs out on the grass.

Afternoon — makers and provisions

The Rondout hamlets are full of old craft. In High Falls, the Canal Forge Blacksmith Shop is a working forge overlooking the Rondout Creek beside the old D&H Canal, making fireplace tools, hardware, and ironwork (and teaching hands-on classes). While you're in High Falls, the High Falls Food Co-op — member-owned since 1974 — is a great spot to grab local provisions and something from the deli. And back toward Accord, Hudson Valley Seed Co. keeps a walk-in shop and trial gardens, famous for its artist-designed seed packets that double as keepsakes.

Late afternoon — a tasting with a view

Finish on the Shawangunk Wine Trail, where the tasting rooms come with the ridge as a backdrop. Whitecliff Vineyard in Gardiner has more than 30 years in the ground and a Riesling that once beat 1,300 wines from 27 countries for Best of Show — sweeping Shawangunk views from the tasting room. Or stay at Arrowood and let the afternoon run long by the fire pits.

If you've got more time

  • The river arm (Highland). A mile from the Walkway Over the Hudson — the longest elevated pedestrian bridge in the world — Hudson Ale Works pours ten-plus house beers with a famous Bavarian pretzel, and Bad Seed Hard Cider runs a weekend taproom and beer garden — the first American producer to can a genuinely dry cider.
  • The river wineries (Marlboro). Benmarl holds New York Farm Winery License #1 and claims America's oldest vineyard, with Hudson River views; nearby Stoutridge makes "untouched" gravity-flow natural wines on a limestone ridge.
  • More New Paltz cider. Brooklyn Cider House at Twin Star Orchards pours Basque-style natural cider with seasonal *txotx* events; Kettleborough does dry traditional cider near the rail trail.
  • For foragers. Accord and Kerhonkson are home base to two of the region's best wild-food teachers — herbalist Dina Falconi and Catskill Fungi — if a guided walk is more your speed than a tasting.

A few practical notes

If you want a real hike in the Gunks, get to the preserve lots early — weekends fill by mid-morning. Westwind's pizza kitchen is a weekend thing, so time lunch accordingly. The wine and spirits stops mean a designated driver, as always. And the rail trail is flat, free, and dog- and family-friendly if anyone in the car isn't up for a climb.

Cliffs on the horizon, cider at the orchard, one very good Saturday.

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