A Hudson Valley Almanac day-trip guide
This corner of Ulster County trades farm stands for something else: New York's first capital, a string of arts-minded river and mountain towns, a reservoir ringed by the Catskill High Peaks, and a dense run of makers, brewers, and cider folk. It's less a farm loop than a Hudson-river-towns-and-foothills day — but it's one of the most rewarding drives in the region, and it's anchored by Kingston, a historic city that's become one of the Hudson Valley's most creative. Here's a loop from Kingston out into the Catskill foothills and back.
Start in Kingston, which wears its history on its sleeve. The uptown Stockade District is the oldest neighborhood, a walkable grid of 17th- and 18th-century stone houses, while down the hill the Rondout waterfront meets the Hudson, with the Maritime Museum and a clutch of good restaurants. Kingston's Saturday farmers market is a strong morning stop if your timing lines up.
For makers, the Yarn Farm in the Rondout is a bright, welcoming fiber-arts shop, and Milestone Mill stone-grinds local organic grain from the Hudson Valley Farm Hub into flour, cornmeal, and tortillas (find them at the market). If beer's on your mind for later, Keegan Ales — one of Ulster's oldest breweries, home of the Mother's Milk stout — and Kingston Standard Brewing are both in town.
Head north to Saugerties, a handsome village full of antiques and independent shops. It's maker country: Tivoli Tile Works throws handmade dinnerware, Martin Keith Guitars builds custom instruments from local tonewoods, and Catskill Mountain Moonshine pours corn whiskey and small-batch spirits (call ahead — the tasting room hours move). For a stroll, the village's Hudson River lighthouse and the bluestone sculpture park just outside town are both local landmarks worth the detour.
Cut west to Woodstock, the arts town that needs no introduction — galleries, the village green, and an easy lunch among the shops. Just outside town, Abandoned Hard Cider makes nuanced ciders from foraged and wild apples — rare heirlooms like Esopus Spitzenburg and Golden Russet rescued from abandoned Catskill orchards. It's a homesteader's cider with real depth.
The scenic centerpiece of the day is the Ashokan Reservoir, where the Catskill High Peaks reflect in the water and the Ashokan Rail Trail runs flat and paved for miles along the shoreline — one of the great easy walks or bike rides in the region (check the trail's current rules before you go). Nearby in Olivebridge, the Ashokan Center is a 385-acre education and retreat center on the National Register, with an 1885 covered bridge over the Esopus and a deep musical history — it's the place that inspired the fiddle tune "Ashokan Farewell," and it hosts the beloved Summer and Winter Hoot festivals.
Follow Route 28 up into the mountains to Phoenicia, a tiny Esopus Creek village (and summer tubing destination). Woodstock Brewing has a taproom and beer garden here in a converted industrial space, with hop-forward ales and bench-style outdoor seating — a fine place to end the day. Phoenicia Honey Co. makes small-batch honey and bath goods that celebrate the wild Catskills.
This slice of Ulster is heavier on towns, makers, and beverages than on farm stands, so I've leaned into what's actually here — the Ashokan and the arts towns carry the day. The reservoir's rail trail is the scenic must-do; it's flat and easy, but confirm the current trail rules (including whether dogs are allowed) before you set out. Kingston's farmers market runs Saturdays. And with breweries, a cidery, and a distillery on the route, bring a designated driver.
The full Ulster lineup is on the Almanac: Ulster County craft beverages and makers & artisans.
A first capital, an arts town or two, a reservoir under the High Peaks — one very good Saturday.